How to Prepare Your Home for Radon Mitigation Installation

The Day Before: What to Clear and Check

Basement/suction point area:

The contractor will core-drill a 3" hole through your basement floor slab. Clear a 4-foot radius around the planned suction location — move storage boxes, shelving, or furniture that would block access or get concrete dust on them.

If you know where the suction point will be (typically near the center of the slab or in a utility area), vacuum the floor there. Concrete dust from the drill mixes with existing dust and makes the cleanup messier than necessary.

Pipe routing path:

The contractor will route 3" PVC pipe from the suction point up through the home to the fan location. Common routes: through a utility closet, up through a first-floor closet, through the garage wall, or up an exterior wall. Walk the planned path and clear any obstructions:

• Remove items stored in closets the pipe will pass through
• Make sure the attic access hatch is unobstructed if routing goes to the attic
• Clear a path through the garage if the pipe will run along the garage wall

Electrical access:

The radon fan requires a 120V outlet. Most contractors prefer to plug the fan into an existing outlet (GFCI-rated) near the mounting location — attic, garage, or exterior. Confirm there's an outlet within reach of the fan mounting point. If not, discuss with your contractor beforehand — they may need an electrician, or can route to a more distant outlet.

Exterior exhaust clearance:

The exhaust pipe must terminate at least 12 inches above the roofline or 10 feet above grade (for exterior wall terminations), away from windows and HVAC intakes. Walk the exterior and note any windows, HVAC intakes, or neighbors' windows that might affect routing choices. You'll have this conversation with the contractor at the start of installation, but thinking it through beforehand speeds the discussion.

During Installation: What to Expect

Core drilling (20–30 minutes): Loud, produces concrete dust. The drill will core through 3–6 inches of concrete slab. This is the noisiest and dustiest part. If you have pets, consider moving them to a different floor.

Pipe routing (1–2 hours): Quieter. The contractor cuts and assembles PVC pipe runs, securing with hangers every 4–6 feet. Interior pipe runs through closets involve cutting small access holes that are sealed after routing.

Fan installation (30–60 minutes): Fan is mounted, connected to the pipe, and plugged in. The contractor will confirm it's running and the manometer shows proper negative pressure.

Testing and manometer installation (15–30 minutes): The U-tube manometer is mounted and filled. The contractor takes a vacuum reading at the suction point to confirm pressure field extension across the slab.

Cleanup: Contractors are responsible for cleaning concrete dust from the drilling area. Confirm this expectation upfront.

After Installation: What to Do First

1. Confirm the manometer is showing differential pressure — both columns should not be equal
2. Note the fan model and installation date for your records
3. Schedule your 30-day post-mitigation test — a short-term charcoal kit, placed in the same location as the original test
4. Get the contractor's written documentation — fan model, suction point location, post-installation vacuum reading

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