2026-04-26 · 5 min read
What's in a DIY Radon Mitigation Kit? Full Breakdown
A complete DIY kit includes the fan, fittings, manometer, and warning device. Here's exactly what you need — and what the kits leave out.
The Two Kit Options
Standard DIY Mitigation Kit (~$289) — Built around the RadonAway XP201 fan. Designed for slab-on-grade homes with good sub-slab aggregate and pre-mitigation radon under 8 pCi/L. Best for most first-time installers.
Pro DIY Mitigation Kit (~$369) — Built around the RadonAway GX3 Pro fan. For homes with clay or packed sand sub-slab, crawl spaces, or pre-mitigation radon of 8–15 pCi/L. The extra $80 buys significantly more suction and Vapor Tite™ motor protection.
What's in the Kit (and Why Each Piece Matters)
Radon fan (XP201 or GX3)
The core of the system. Runs 24/7, creating negative pressure beneath your slab that draws radon out before it enters your home. Selection is based on sub-slab conditions and pre-mitigation levels.
3" PVC fitting package
Elbows (90° and 45°), couplings, a test plug, and adapters to connect the fan inlet and outlet to your pipe run. The kit includes standard fittings for a typical installation; complex routing may require additional pieces from a hardware store.
U-tube manometer
A liquid-filled pressure gauge that shows whether the system is creating proper negative pressure. Mount it at eye level on the pipe where you'll see it regularly. If both sides of the U are level, the fan has failed. This is your daily "is it working?" check.
System failure warning device
Required by code in most states. A separate visual indicator (often a gauge or float) that provides redundant confirmation of system operation. Some states require this as a distinct labeled device, separate from the manometer.
Pipe sealant / caulk
For sealing the annular space around the pipe where it exits through the floor-wall transition and any other penetrations. Hydraulic cement (sold separately) is used for the core hole; this sealant handles secondary penetrations and transitions.
Installation guide
Step-by-step instructions for site assessment, core drilling, pipe routing, fan installation, and post-installation testing.
What's NOT in the Kit
PVC pipe: Kits include fittings but not the pipe itself — you'll need 3" Schedule 40 PVC in the length required for your specific routing. Available at any hardware store; buy it locally rather than shipping.
Core drill bit and drill: A 3" diamond core bit for concrete is required to drill the suction hole. Not included — available separately from the shop or any hardware store. You'll need a rotary hammer or heavy-duty drill.
Hydraulic cement: For sealing the annular space (the gap between the PVC pipe and the concrete slab after core drilling). This seal is non-optional — an unsealed core hole bypasses the entire system. Sold separately.
Electrical connection: The fan requires a standard 120V outlet. The kit includes the fan with a standard plug for connection to an existing outlet. If there's no outlet near your mounting location, you'll need an electrician to add one, or run an extension to a GFCI outlet temporarily for testing (permanent installation requires a proper circuit).
Test kit for post-mitigation verification: You'll need a short-term charcoal test kit (available in the shop) to confirm post-mitigation levels 30 days after installation.
DIY vs. Contractor: The Honest Comparison
| Factor | DIY | Contractor |
| Cost | $300–$450 | $1,000–$2,500 |
| Time | 4–8 hours | 3–5 hours |
| Sub-slab assessment | You make the call | NRPP professional assesses |
| Post-mitigation guarantee | None | Many contractors guarantee results |
| Code compliance | Your responsibility | Contractor's responsibility |
| Permit (some states) | You pull it | Contractor handles it |
DIY is the right choice if you're comfortable with the technical tasks and can assess your sub-slab conditions. When in doubt — especially with radon above 10 pCi/L, unusual foundation types, or a home you're selling — hire a certified contractor. The cost difference is narrowed when you factor in tool rental, permit fees, and the value of a guaranteed result.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is included in a radon mitigation kit?
A complete DIY radon mitigation kit typically includes a radon fan (XP201 or GX3), PVC fittings package (elbows, couplings, adapters), a U-tube manometer (system performance indicator), a system failure warning device, pipe sealant, and installation instructions. The kit does not include the PVC pipe itself, electrical connections, or tools.
What tools do I need for DIY radon mitigation?
Core drill or rotary hammer with a 3" diamond core bit, drill/driver, PVC pipe saw or hacksaw, PVC primer and cement, caulk gun for hydraulic cement, tape measure, and a level. You'll also need access to a 120V outlet near the fan mounting location for the fan's electrical connection.
How much does a DIY radon mitigation cost vs hiring a contractor?
DIY materials run $300–$450 for a standard slab-on-grade installation. Professional installation by an NRPP-certified contractor typically costs $1,000–$2,500. DIY saves 60–75% on cost but requires 4–8 hours of work, comfort with basic plumbing and construction tasks, and the ability to make a judgment call on suction point placement.
Find a Certified Mitigator Near You
Every contractor on RadonBase is NRPP or NRSB certified — mitigators only, no testers.
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